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Cat vs. Cat: Keeping Peace When You Have More Than One Cat Paperback – July 6, 2004
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Pam Johnson-Bennett, the award-winning author and feline behaviorist, shows how adding another cat to your home does not have to be the start of a kitty apocalypse. Although cats are often misunderstood as natural loners, Johnson-Bennett shows how to plan, set up, and maintain a home environment that will help multiple cats—and their owners—live in peace. Cat vs. Cat will help readers understand the importance of territory, the specialized communication cats use to establish relationships and hierarchies, and how to interpret the so-called “bad behavior” that leads so many owners to needless frustration. Offering a wealth of information on how to diffuse tension, prevent squabbles and ambushes, blend two families, or help the elder kitty in your family, Cat vs. Cat is a welcome resource for both seasoned and prospective guardians of cat families large and small.
- Print length240 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherPenguin Books
- Publication dateJuly 6, 2004
- Grade level12 and up
- Reading age18 years and up
- Dimensions8.1 x 5.4 x 0.64 inches
- ISBN-100142004758
- ISBN-13978-0142004753
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Editorial Reviews
Review
"Gives you the tools you need to have more than one cat and peace as well."
--Janice Willard, DVM, MS, columnist for Knight Ridder Tribune
"A must read for anyone who is contemplating adding 'just one more cat' to their household."
--Darlene Arden, author of The Angell Memorial Animal Hospital Book of Wellness and Preventive Care of Dogs
About the Author
Pam was vice president of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants and the founder and longtime chair of the IAABC cat division. She served on the American Humane Association's Advisory Board on Animal Behavior and Training and the American Humane Association Cat Health and Welfare Forum. She is also on the Advisory Board for Tree House Humane Society. She lectures worldwide at veterinary conferences and animal welfare organizations.
Pam is the recipient of numerous awards, including the Winn Feline Foundation Media Award and the IAABC cat division award.
In addition to her work with cats, Pam is the co-author of Cookies for Dinner. This book chronicles the funny and often embarrassing side of motherhood. The sequel to Cookies for Dinner is set for release in late 2015/early2016.
Pam owns Cat Behavior Associates, LLC. Website catbehaviorassociates.com
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
1
The Feline Social Structure
You may look at your multicat household as one happy family; you love your cats equally and feel there shouldn't be any reason for fighting or squabbling. In reality, though, your cats don't view each other as equals, nor should they. Whether you have two cats or twenty, there is a bit of a pecking order. It may bother you to think that a few cats might have higher status than others, but some form of a hierarchy is necessary in feline society. In a free-roaming environment, it prevents overcrowding of the colony and gives cats a sense of order and security.
It used to be that cats weren't thought of as being social animals, especially when compared to their canine counterparts. Even today, many people imagine that their cats are solitary, even antisocial, but they're misinterpreting what they see. Cats are solitary hunters, and they're looking out for themselves. They capture only prey large enough for one meal. Watching them on the prowl, many people incorrectly label them as solitary animals in all aspects of their lives.
Another behavior that adds to cats' mistakenly labeled reputation as asocial is their territorial instinct and their attitude toward newcomers. We recognize dogs as social creatures-pack animals-because existing canine households will often easily accept a new puppy. When cat parents think of adding another cat, visions of hissing, scratching, fights, and, in general, disaster come to mind. This hardly inspires one to label cats as social. But it can work, so long as you go about it in a way that makes sense to the cats involved. It's important to understand and then work out territorial issues before putting two cats together; if you do, they can become friends and develop a long-term relationship. Cats can readily adapt to living in groups, and although they may still maintain some preferred personal areas, many enjoy companionship and benefit from group living. It just takes a little finesse.
The social structure is complex and easy to misunderstand. It's built around resource availability. The need for food and other resources often outweighs the desire to fight. Cats will coexist in closer proximity to one another near a common food source or shelter. Even in those situations, most cats may avoid each other and "live alone" in a group. Between the independent ferals and the dependent indoor cats you'll find free-roaming cats: ferals who interact minimally, and owned cats who have access to the outdoors.
The most common social relationship is between a female cat and her kittens. With indoor cats, kittens are generally separated from the mother too early by people wanting to adopt them out (kittens should be kept with the mother and littermates for twelve weeks). In free-roaming environments, kittens usually stay with the mother longer. Female kittens, once they leave the mother, will generally stay within the same area, whereas males will travel farther.
In feral colonies, far from being antisocial, related females are often so closely bonded that they may nurse each other's kittens as well as help raise them. This benefits the mothers who are not as strong, so all the kittens have a better chance at survival. Females commonly move their kittens often if they fear attacks from males or outside predators. Females will also band together to help defend against aggressive males who pose a threat, or any other potential danger to their kittens. In free-roaming cats, long-term bonds aren't formed between mating partners. There's nothing romantic about sex in the feline world. It's all about survival.
In multicat homes you'll see a spectrum of different social behaviors; the cats may only tolerate one another, or some cats may form very close bonds. Much of this will depend on how well the cats were socialized as kittens, how they were introduced to each other, their distinct personalities, their allotted spaces and their understanding of the territorial divisions, and how the cat parent has set up resource availability and has handled squabbles.
In a cat colony, unfamiliar cats are typically driven away, but if a cat keeps returning, he may work his way in and eventually be accepted. This is a slow process and mirrors the way a new cat entering an established multicat household may be accepted. Just as in the outdoor cat colony, the introduction of a new cat into your home must be gradual in order to increase the odds of acceptance.
Avoiding conflict is a major concern in a feral colony and also in your multicat home. It's important to pay attention so you can minimize the fighting/aggression period and also make sure all your cats are safe and don't harm one another as they're being introduced. Cats are very sensitive to feeling threatened, which may not only result in an obvious display of aggression but may cause cats to withdraw and remain chronically stressed. Ongoing stress or conflict can lead to illness. The body isn't designed to stay in the stress response (fight/flight) long-term.
In a multicat home, just as in an outdoor colony, cats form unique relationships with each other. Certain cats may develop close bonds. They may frequently engage in allogrooming, rubbing, sleeping close together, tail-up greetings, and tail entwining. When cats are closely bonded, it's not unusual to see one act as a pillow for the other when sleeping. With other cats in the group, there may be friendly relationships but not as close.
Often, one cat may lick the head of another cat as an invitation to play. This might be welcomed and result in a game of chase or play wrestling, but sometimes it's ill timed and results in a swat to the nose of the initiator. This is how the cats begin to learn each other's play signals.
When two familiar cats approach each other in a friendly environment or in an area where there are no turf disputes, they will start with nose-to-nose sniffing, head rubbing, and possibly licking the face and ears. Anal sniffing follows. If the cats are not so friendly, then the exchange will end at nose sniffing.
When your cat jumps in your lap, goes nose-to-nose with you, and then turns to present his backside, you may have considered this distasteful, but it's very polite in terms of feline social etiquette, and you should feel complimented (though you don't have to respond in kind!). Another often misinterpreted behavior is when a cat lounges with his back toward you. What he's really saying in both situations is that he trusts you. Scratching is appreciated then.
Status and Hierarchy
Although there is a general hierarchy in your cat household, it's not a pecking order forever set in stone. The hierarchy is dynamic and subtly shifts and moves. When a hierarchy is well established, the security and familiarity of knowing where they stand allows the cats to coexist peacefully. But in some households the delicate hierarchy remains in balance only by a whisker. One or two cats may rule the roost, usually simultaneously but with turf areas worked out so they don't step on each other's paws, so to speak. Subtle shifts in status can occur, depending on who is in the room and what events are taking place.
Think of the hierarchy as the rungs on a ladder. The highest-ranking cat sits on top. In a perfect world, each new cat added to the household would take his place at the next highest available rung. Oh, if only it could be that simple, there wouldn't be so many battles. Unfortunately, though, a new cat may be more assertive and might attempt to knock another cat off an attractive rung. As you can imagine, that never sits well with the existing cat community, and suddenly the rungs on the ladder get a bit shaky. If you're going from one cat to two, your resident cat may willingly step aside from the top rung (it's easy to be top cat when there are no other cats in the house). He may feel more comfortable taking a lower status if the new cat is more confident.
The rungs of an actual ladder are evenly spaced, but the rungs on the feline hierarchy ladder aren't. Some cats may be relatively close in status, so their rungs may just be a whisker's width apart. Other cats may be separated by very wide gaps. This unevenness in the spaces is one reason why the hierarchy may hit bumps in the road. The competition between two cats close in rank may routinely ignite the anxiety of one, and they will be more likely to engage in physical confrontation. A middle-ranking cat may repeatedly pick on a very low-ranking cat, especially if he has been the target of the cats above him. Since he doesn't feel confident enough to stand up to the more senior cats, he turns his frustrations on a cat beneath him.
A major role of being the higher-ranking cat is to ensure priority when it comes to resources such as the food bowl, litter box, favorite resting areas, etc. Of course, it's not always guaranteed that the higher-ranking cat will gain that priority access if one or more subordinate cats decide to challenge. Just as in the human world, life doesn't always go according to plan.
There are traditional signals and behaviors that help communicate subordinate status and higher-ranking position. Some are so subtle you may easily miss them. For example, a subordinate cat will often look away and avoid direct eye contact with the higher-ranking cat. He will also turn his body more sideways when the other cat is near; he may crouch and attempt to appear nonthreatening. It's normal to see a subordinate cat give way on a path to allow the higher-ranking cat to pass.
A higher-ranking cat may use direct stares, straighten and stiffen his legs, and have his body forward facing.
Status in each group-living environment is unique, based on the personalities of each cat and how they work out their time-sharing in the environment. Your neighbor's multicat household may have more issues than your household even though you may have more cats. Every situation has its own set of circumstances.
The hierarchy within a multicat household may appear flexible in that one cat may rule a certain room, while another cat may claim dibs on another location, such as the kitchen, where the food bowls are located. When it comes to any kind of hierarchy, don't think in terms of an overall dominant or alpha cat and don't think of the rungs of the ladder as being stiff and unmovable. The arrangement cats work out has more to do with how they do their territorial negotiations and their choices of what resources/territories matter to each of them.
Scrutiny of your environment can provide clues about the relationships between your cats and their status. For example, height can play a role in status. I'm not referring to how tall a cat may be, but rather the ability to access and control higher elevations in the home. The cat who controls the elevated locations in a room-tabletops, tops of bookshelves, or dedicated cat-climbing furniture-may likely develop the higher status. The higher perch provides the cat with the ability to oversee his area and demonstrates his status to subordinates. It may also help reduce conflict, because the cat may choose to go to his perch to show indifference and status rather than engage in active aggression.
The physical position of the cats as they enter a room may also provide clues as to who is in charge in that area or at that time. For example, two cats enter the room and one walks toward the middle of the space while the other walks along the perimeter. The one occupying the center of the room may give a direct stare to the perimeter cat. The perimeter cat avoids direct eye contact. The center cat most likely has control of that room.
In a tense environment, cats who are less prone to anxiety tend to be higher ranking. This stands to reason, because when the group faces a stressful situation, it needs leaders who are calmer and more able to react appropriately for the benefit of the colony. A higher-ranking cat in your household may not necessarily be the one who displays the most aggression, but the calmest cat of the bunch.
Cats close in status are more likely to engage in an actual physical confrontation. These cats may be on the middle rungs of the status ladder. A clearly higher-ranking cat may show indifference and walk away from a tense situation or groom himself. Acting indifferent can appear more intimidating. It works to his advantage not to display weakness.
Higher-ranking cats may posture instead of entering into actual aggressive confrontations. Posturing is an important precursor to any potentially aggressive encounter. Guarding choice areas is a common example. A high-ranking cat may block the pathway to the litter box or food bowl or might stay in the litter box longer and be the first one to use it after it has been cleaned.
Higher-ranking cats frequently claim the prime areas of a territory. For some cats that may be the cat parent's bed. For others, it could be the soft chair by the fireplace or the window that overlooks the outdoor bird feeder.
Sometimes, when a number of cats share a territory, you'll find one who becomes a pariah. This is the lowest-ranking cat, who stays far away from the others. The pariah lives on the perimeter of the territory, walks low to the ground, and will usually growl when in the vicinity of another cat. You may find him slinking to the feeding station to grab leftovers long after the other cats have eaten. It's important to provide safe retreats for the lowest-ranking cat and places where he can access resources without fear of attack.
How a cat interacts with you doesn't influence his rank in the feline group. A higher-ranking cat, however, may display some of the same status-related behavior toward a human as he would another cat-he might stare you in the eye, rub against your leg or arm, and then back away as a challenge or exhibit mouthing (the cat puts his teeth on you but doesn't apply any pressure).
What determines a cat's place in the hierarchy? There are many factors, such as age, size, confidence, sexual maturity, social maturity, number of cats, whether the cat had littermates and how they interacted, health, the availability of food-the list goes on. It's dynamic and complex.
Product details
- Publisher : Penguin Books (July 6, 2004)
- Language : English
- Paperback : 240 pages
- ISBN-10 : 0142004758
- ISBN-13 : 978-0142004753
- Reading age : 18 years and up
- Grade level : 12 and up
- Item Weight : 7.8 ounces
- Dimensions : 8.1 x 5.4 x 0.64 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #261,658 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #48 in Cat Breeds (Books)
- #51 in Cat Training
- #20,309 in Reference (Books)
- Customer Reviews:
About the author
Pam Johnson-Bennett is a best-selling author of 8 books on cat behavior and known as one of the top cat behavior experts in the world. With a career that began in 1982, Pam is a pioneer in the field of cat behavior consulting. She was the first to do in-home behavior consultations at a time when very few were even talking about the idea of cat behavior and training. The completely updated and revised edition of Pam's best-selling book, CAT VS CAT, was recently released. For multicat homes, this is a must-have guide to maintaining harmony. The original version was the first of its kind to address the unique challenges of living with more than one cat. In CATWISE, Pam answers the questions that puzzled cat parents most want to know. CATWISE is an extremely popular resource used by cat shelters and behavior hotlines. Pam is also the author of the best-selling THINK LIKE A CAT, the comprehensive and ground-breaking cat behavior guide that is considered the cat bible by behavior professionals, veterinarians, shelters and cat parents worldwide. Pam's books and techniques have been used as texts for professional behavior courses and she is considered a mentor for many in the field today.
Pam starred in the Animal Planet/Nat Geo Wild TV show "Psycho Kitty." She was vice president of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants and the founder and longtime chair of the IAABC cat division. She has been a member of several advisory boards including the American Humane Association's Advisory Board on Animal Behavior and Training, the American Humane Association Cat Health and Welfare Forum, Tree House Humane, and Daily Paws. She lectures worldwide at veterinary conferences and animal welfare organizations and is a frequent guest on national TV and radio. She has authored hundreds of articles on cat behavior and has been profiled in numerous national publications and television such as CNN, Fox News Channel, Animal Planet and National Geographic.
Pam is the recipient of numerous awards, including the Winn Feline Foundation Media Award, the IAABC cat division award and several writing awards.
Pam owns Cat Behavior Associates, LLC. Website http://www.catbehaviorassociates.com
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I always get kittens in pairs. Unfortunately one of my cats passed away very young and that of course left me with 1 cat. It was a heartbreaking experience and ultimately we decided to just stick with the one cat as he was an extremely timid cat and we didn't want to stress him out by introducing another cat. Well fast forward 5 years and we changed our minds and decided to give it a go. I quickly learned why its best to get kittens in pairs. Our cat just hissed and hissed every time the kitten got near him. It wasn't really a problem as he basically just stayed clear of the kitten. Once the new kitten reached 6 months, he started terrorizing our older cat. He would just follow him around and jump on him when he wasn't looking. It was pure chaos and we really didn't know what to do. That is when I found out about this book and I immediately ordered a copy.
To make a long story short, this book and its techniques worked miracles. We still have incidents here and there but for the most part we now live in a very peaceful household. In fact we came home last week and found them cleaning each other on our couch. It was one of the best moments I have ever had as a cat owner as the main reason we got the new cat was so he could have a friend again. To now see that friendship forming, well its absolutely priceless and I owe it all to this book. In all honesty I would recommend this book to everyone that has more than one cat, even if they don't have any problems getting along. It teaches you to understand their moods and actions and just makes you a much more well informed cat owner.
The bottom line - If your planning on introducing a 2nd cat into your household this book should be as mandatory as the litter and food you buy. Even if you don't have any problems, this book can still be extremely educational in regards to feline behavior. I honestly cant even begin to give this book enough praise. Its the one book all multiple cat households should have.
The "feline hierarchy" and "vertical space" discussions were particularly insightful, as was the "how to play with your kitty" section. I also found the part discussing how to interpret cat posture really useful.
However...
Is it reasonable to expect everyone to keep at least one litter box for each cat, in each cats' preferred home territory, filled with their favorite brand of litter and scooped twice daily? Or the ability to spend weeks or months introducing new cat members to the family? Or the time to devote 15 minutes, twice a day, in interactive play with each individual kitty? Um, hello -- some people actually have LIVES.
I think this book can be really helpful to anyone struggling to keep their felines happily co-habitating. You'll be pleased with it so long as you can bypass the instances of well intentioned but unrealistic advice.
We are a five cat household. All five are rescues and two are feral brother and sister cats. We have managed to socialize all of them into one colony where they get along and respect the Queen (although she is not the highest in the pecking order). The book explains in good detail how important the feline hierarchy is and how this hierarchy is often expressed in vertical space. I had personally studied about this aspect and have seen it in my own cats but was delighted to read a good explanation about it.
This is a fantastic book for those in multiple cat households who may or may not be encountering tension between cats. The book explains territories and hierarchies very well. Understanding the importance of these two aspects in a feline's life will help everything else come together and make sense.
I recommend the book as a great resource for all of those who have multiple feline households or are contemplating bringing another feline into the fold. Think about it and read about it -- you will be happy you did.
UPDATE June 24, 2010: Another stray whose been in the wild for a while (but is definitely a domestic cat) has chosen us as his new family. I grabbed this book off my shelf as a refresher and it's as relevant as ever. Taking the new introduction nice and slow with our other 5 cats (two ferals) and things are going well. Working through some expected marking behaviors but am confident we can get our little "Tuxedo Joe" on track as he becomes more comfortable. A book like this is a MUST for multiple cat households or anyone that just wants to understand cat behavior well. Great book ... still :)
UPDATE June 15 2010: The newest stray is integrated with the other 5 and unbelievably all using one litter box. I don't recommend this but they decided this is they way they want to do things. I use Pine litter such as Feline Pine for anyone who is curious. I also used Feliway spray and various enzyme cleaners. Smells are gone and cats are happy and still doing some territory adjusting (to be expected). Very nice integration. This book is extremely helpful!
5 stars!
Reviewed in the United States on December 10, 2009
We are a five cat household. All five are rescues and two are feral brother and sister cats. We have managed to socialize all of them into one colony where they get along and respect the Queen (although she is not the highest in the pecking order). The book explains in good detail how important the feline hierarchy is and how this hierarchy is often expressed in vertical space. I had personally studied about this aspect and have seen it in my own cats but was delighted to read a good explanation about it.
This is a fantastic book for those in multiple cat households who may or may not be encountering tension between cats. The book explains territories and hierarchies very well. Understanding the importance of these two aspects in a feline's life will help everything else come together and make sense.
I recommend the book as a great resource for all of those who have multiple feline households or are contemplating bringing another feline into the fold. Think about it and read about it -- you will be happy you did.
UPDATE June 24, 2010: Another stray whose been in the wild for a while (but is definitely a domestic cat) has chosen us as his new family. I grabbed this book off my shelf as a refresher and it's as relevant as ever. Taking the new introduction nice and slow with our other 5 cats (two ferals) and things are going well. Working through some expected marking behaviors but am confident we can get our little "Tuxedo Joe" on track as he becomes more comfortable. A book like this is a MUST for multiple cat households or anyone that just wants to understand cat behavior well. Great book ... still :)
UPDATE June 15 2010: The newest stray is integrated with the other 5 and unbelievably all using one litter box. I don't recommend this but they decided this is they way they want to do things. I use Pine litter such as Feline Pine for anyone who is curious. I also used Feliway spray and various enzyme cleaners. Smells are gone and cats are happy and still doing some territory adjusting (to be expected). Very nice integration. This book is extremely helpful!
5 stars!
Top reviews from other countries
I read the book, but really took nothing away from it.